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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.